Coneflowers (Echinacea species) are native American wildflowers that have found their way into our gardens because of their stunning beauty and hardiness. Originally only available in shades of purple and lavender, coneflowers now come in a wide range of colors. Thanks to the efforts of breeders across the country, they can now be found in shades of pink, white, purple, yellow, orange and salmon. They come in a range of sizes as well, from dwarf coneflowers that grow only 18" high and wide to varieties that grow 4-5' high and half as wide.

The 3-5" diameter flowers on these robust deciduous perennials are arranged above sturdy, elongated, upright stems that are perfect for cutting and last in a vase from 5-7 days. The flowers have somewhat weeping petals that surround a coned center (thus, the name) and are produced from summer into fall.

Coneflowers prefer full sun locations and regular watering in well-drained soil that keeps them moist, but not wet. They require a couple of feedings per year of a good flower food to keep them healthy and strong.

Coneflowers make an excellent addition to any perennial garden and also look great in border or container plantings. They are a perfect selection for butterfly gardens. We invite you to stop by and bring some home today!

Groundcovers are low-growing plants that spread quickly to form a dense cover. While they add beauty to the landscape, they can also solve many planting problems in difficult sites. Unlike grass, most groundcovers cannot be walked on, but they more than make up for lack of foot traffic tolerance with a much lower water requirement. Many are compatible planted between shrubs, providing contrast for a classic finished landscape look.

Groundcovers are used most frequently for erosion control on steep banks or slopes. In addition, many shade-loving varieties can grow under trees where grass would thin out or die. When planted under trees, groundcovers reduce mower damage to the base of the tree. Since most groundcovers require less sunlight, moisture and nutrients than grass, they create less competition with trees and shrubs. Groundcovers also can survive where tree roots grow close to the surface and prevent grass from growing.

The groundcover you select depends on the area where it will be grown. Some groundcover plants prefer shade. Others thrive in full sun. Some prefer moist soil, while others need dry or well-drained soil. To work well as groundcovers, plants have to be tough, durable, and relatively fast-growing, but not invasive. All groundcovers are perennial and most are evergreen.

SOIL PREPARATION
Because groundcovers live for many years in the same spot, it is worth the effort to prepare the soil well before you plant them. This allows plants to establish good root systems. Work the soil to a depth of six inches and add a two-inch layer of organic amendment to improve drainage and water-holding capacity in soils. Then apply a starter fertilizer to aid in root development.

PLANTING
Most groundcovers can be planted at any time of the year. However, fall planting takes advantage of lower temperatures and natural rainfall. Watering is reduced and plants establish a stronger root system before summer. Space the plants according to their size, the immediate effect desired, and their rate of growth and habit.

If individual plants are spaced too far apart, weeding can be a problem and the time required for complete coverage can be quite long. On the other hand, planting too closely will force the plants to compete as they grow into maturity. We recommend spacing plants so the groundcover areas will be completely covered by the end of the second growing season. A staggered row-planting pattern usually will result in the quickest cover of the planting bed.

All groundcover will benefit from a two-inch layer of mulch, to help retain moisture and keep roots protected until they become established. Mulch, of course, also aids in weed control. We stock a great selection of ground cover year-round and invite you to come in and discover the multitude of choices available for your garden. Our staff of nursery professionals will be happy to guide you with all of your groundcover needs.

Many people have become interested in organic gardening, both from a desire for safer foods and an interest in the environment. But many people also have the feeling that organic gardening makes it much more difficult to deal with pests, disease and weeds. However, the use of organics to feed the soil does produce stronger plants that, from the start, are more able to resist pests and disease. And there are plenty of organic alternatives to using harmful poisons in your garden, even if you do have pest or disease problems. Weed control is also easier than you might think!

Pest and Disease Control
While some insects can simply be washed off or picked by hand, many require some kind of insect spray to control them. Aphids, mites, whiteflies and other insects can be controlled with an insecticidal soap, a pyrethrum spray or a spray oil. Caterpillars and tomato hornworms can be controlled with an insect spray containing Bt.

Some plant diseases can be eliminated simply by hand-picking the infected leaves and depositing them in the garbage. For more difficult cases of powdery mildew, rust, blackspot and other diseases we recommend using a sulfur spray or a copper soap.

Weed Control
If you are using an organic approach to gardening, then it goes without saying that you want to resist spraying herbicides to control weeds. The key to weed control in an organic garden is prevention. This can be done by applying an organic pre-emergent weed control twice a year. Then cover your open spaces with a 2-3" layer of mulch. The mulch not only helps control weeds but also helps the soil retain moisture, providing a great environment for the beneficial microbes in your soil and for your organic plant food to multiply.

Gardening organically can be a truly rewarding experience. Not only will your garden be healthier, but the food you grow will be delicious too. And most important of all, you will be actively making a positive contribution to the environment.

One of the most useful additions you can make in your garden is to plant a tree. A tree adds scale and structure to a garden and pulls together the various elements that create the overall look and feel. The tree's foliage throughout the seasons, and flowers when they are significant, will also add impact to your garden design.

Yet today, many gardens do not have the space for large spreading trees (along with their imposing trunks). But most of us have a small garden--or even a courtyard--that still can use a smaller tree to give balance to the landscape.

Sometimes gardening isn't limited by space, but by time and interest. If you love the idea of being surrounded by a garden, but you can't see yourself spending countless hours with a pruning shear in your hands, a wonderful option is to create a garden paradise on your patio or terrace in containers. And small trees will add balance and make a great addition to any patio collection.

Small trees are sometimes called patio trees and are usually defined as slower-growing and ranging in height from six to fifteen feet. Most produce an incredible display of blooms at some time of the year, and have non-invasive roots as an added landscape benefit.

When selecting a patio tree, allow adequate width to keep walkways, entryways, driveways or buildings clear of overhanging branches. Many small trees, although short, can spread as much laterally as vertically.

Answer:

Your daylily plant probably has not been fed in some time and needs an infusion of nutrients to bring back its true colors. Modern hybrid daylilies have a very diverse color range, considering that the wild types from which they have been bred were only in shades of yellow, orange--or what we like to call peach.

The problem is that since all daylily hybrids can be traced back to the original wild daylilies, they can also revert to those original colors (no matter what color they are supposed to be) if not kept fed and happy with a balanced supply of nutrients. We recommend feeding daylilies every two months, from April through September, with a balanced flower food.

Tomato hornworms are the larvae of a large sphinx moth that is about the size of a hummingbird. In spring the moth lays eggs on the underside of tomato leaves, and the hornworm is quite small when it first emerges. However, it is a big eater (of tomato leaves) and grows up quickly. Usually, you won't even discover this fellow until it is large--about 2 inches long and fat! They are quite distinctive, actually handsome with their diagonal white stripes and horns on the rear.

Don't be afraid of the hornworms. They look more frightening than they are. They don't bite or sting, just try to look big and ferocious. You can easily handpick to remove from your tomato plant and just throw them away. When they are younger and smaller, use Bt (bacillus thuringiensis) as an effective management technique.

Some gardeners have a different approach to the tomato hornworm. While handpicking a hornworm, look to see if you find little white cocoons attached to its back. If you do see this, that cocoon is a pupating braconid wasp, which is a garden-friend predator. Capture the hornworm and keep it (or all of them) in a container, feeding them tomato leaves. You are creating a nursery for the braconid wasps that can be released into your garden! These wasps will also control the hornworm population.

Other natural predators are birds and the larvae of the green lacewing. Plant your gardens to create an inviting habitat for all of these natural predators, and you'll control this voracious eater of your tomato leaves. Luckily, they don't eat the tomato!

Grasshoppers are among the most difficult insect pests to manage in the garden. When numbers are low, they can be hand-picked and squashed. Floating row covers and other protective covers provide some protection if their numbers are not high. However, grasshoppers will eat through cloth or plastic row covers if they are hungry enough.

Most grasshoppers are general feeders, but they prefer young, green plants, especially lettuce, beans, corn, carrots, onions, and some annual flowers. Grasshoppers do their damage by chewing and can remove large sections of leaves and flowers in one sitting, sometimes devouring an entire plant. An odd grasshopper here and there is nothing to be alarmed about, but should you face a full invasion, there are some steps you can take to combat this destructive pest.

The best way to control grasshoppers is to apply a bait containing carbaryl around the borders of your garden. Make sure to re-apply baits after any period of rain. For non-edible plants, you can also use a spray directly on the plants. It usually helps to do a repeat spray every couple of weeks until they leave your garden. Make sure to spray late in the evening or early morning when bee activity is lower; you don't want to kill our important pollinators.

Bonide Eight
Insect Control® Yard & Garden Spray

Eliminate insects from your yard and garden with Bonide Eight Insect Control® Yard & Garden Spray. This ready-to-use insecticide may be applied to vegetables, roses, flowers, and trees, shrubs, and lawns to control a wide range of flying and crawling insects. Apply to foundations, porches, eaves, and windows to control over 100 different indoor/outdoor nuisance pests such as ants, bagworms, beetles, borers, spider mites, moths, gnats, and tent caterpillars. Spray into hiding places, cracks, and crevices for residual control up to four weeks. Eliminate the insects that invade your yard and garden with Bonide Eight Insect Control Yard & Garden Spray.